This site utilizes Cookie. Cookie is used to improve functionality and accessibility of this site, in addition to use for analysis. Your agreement to the use of Cookie and private policy is presumed by continual use of this site without changing its settings. For details on the private policy, please refer here.


Tetsuya Doi


土居 哲也 / リコール

Winner's Interview

Interview / Dec. 23, 2020
Interview by Tomoko Kawasaki
Translation by Aiko Osaki
Photography by Yohey Goto

土居 哲也

「PITTI UOMO」とパリのショールーム「」、6月には「JOOR」でコレクションを発表するにあたり、どのような意識で臨みましたか。

PITTIには僕自身は同行できていないのですが、パリのショールームに関しては、ブランドの世界観を伝えていくために、インスタレーションとしての見せ方に振り切った展開に挑戦しました。クリエイションを追うブランドとしてはショールームも大事ですが、やはりフィジカルなショーで発表していきたいと思っていますし、パリでTAAKKのショーを拝見するなどして、パリコレでショーを開催したいという気持ちがますます強くなりました。 JOORに関してはデジタルプラットフォームでの発表でしたが、バイヤーはそれでもやはりブランドの世界観を見たがっていて、画面を通して発表することに対してブランドとしてどうするべきか考えさせられました。取り扱いしていただいている店舗さんの店頭に立って自分で接客することもあり、僕のファッションは対面での出会いで拡がるビジネスだと思っています。デジタルを否定するわけではありませんが、フィジカルの重要性をとても感じる経験となりました。



土居 哲也 Re:quaL≡



TOKYO FASHION AWARDのプログラムに参加したことは、ブランドにとってどのような経験になりましたか。


土居 哲也 Re:quaL≡


90年代後半のオランダ人デザイナー、アレクサンダー・ヴァン・スロベやニールス・クラバースなど、コンテンポラリーで面白い表現を実験的に試みていた方々に影響を受けています。彼らの思想に対して大きなリスペクトや愛があって、2020年を生きる今の伝え手として彼らの表現を継承していけたらと考えています。 ブランドとしての一番の目標はパリコレでのショーです。パリは街とモードが連動している特別な場所ですし、僕自身がメゾンに対する憧れがとても大きいのもあって、モードとして魅せることにこだわっていきたいので、パリで発表したい。また、社会の基準を満たし、世間から認められるブランドでありたいとも思っているので、LVMHプライズにも挑戦していきます。 Re:quaL≡が提案している過去を通して伝えていくファッションは、飽和するファッション業界に対して何かできることがあると思っています。ビジネス展望としては、街との相性の良さを感じるので、中国を始めとしたアジア市場での展開を考えています。

土居 哲也 Re:quaL≡

How was “PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO” at Florence and exhibition at the Paris showroom, “”, in January?

I wasn’t able to join the crew at PITTI, but for the Paris showroom, in order to convey the brand’s world view, we challenged ourselves in doing an installation style presentation. For a brand pursuing creation, showrooms are of course important, but I rather continue presenting physical shows, and having seen TAAKK’s show in Paris has further strengthened my dream to one-day present a show at the Paris collection. As for JOOR, it was a presentation in a digital platform, but in the end, buyers usually say they want to see the worldview of the brand, which made me think hard about how the brand can and should present through a screen. I sometimes work as a sales staff at the shops which carry our products, and I feel that my fashion is a business which grows through face-to-face encounters. I don’t mean to deny digital, but this has been an experience which has made me feel the importance of physical.

Between PITTI, the showroom and JOOR, how was the reaction of the buyers and press?

Our conditions didn’t meet, so it didn’t end up in tying business, but we received contact from a world famous select shop. And we have received good reactions, with an increase in domestic shops that carry our products.

Please tell us also about the triumphant return event held in Tokyo Fashion Week this March.

Under the theme “retrace”, we presented a runway show reinterpreting past reference in mode. We received grave reaction to our first show in Tokyo. As a business strategy, we limit the number of shops we wholesale to, so it didn’t tie into business immediately, but we’ve received lots of contacts. I truly love fashion shows. I’ve also always liked the Tokyo Collection, and have kept my eye on it for years. In the future, fashion and culture may become things which are consumed through a screen, and it may become a time in which fashion brands sell media rather than sell clothing itself, but as Re:quaL≡, we hope to continue presenting shows.

土居 哲也 Re:quaL≡

What kind of experience has participating in the programs of the TOKYO FASHION AWARD been for the brand?

I am truly thankful for being chosen along with such prominent brands. I’ve always wanted to participate in the Tokyo Collection, so it was an honor, and as for being able to do a show at Tokyo, I am overwhelmed with emotion. It feels as if this is the start of the brand.

Please tell us your plans for the future. What sort of things do you wish to challenge as a designer?

I’ve been influenced by designers Dutch designers of the late 90’s whom experimentally challenged contemporary and interesting expressions, such as Alexander van Slobbe, Niels Klavers, etc. I have great respect and love towards their ideology, and as a present-day messenger living in 2020, I hope to inherit their expressionism. The primary aim as a brand is to do a show at the Paris Collection. Paris is a special place at which the town and mode is interlocked, plus because I have a strong idolization towards maisons, I intend to stick to being particular about showing as mode, so I want to present at Paris. Furthermore, I want the brand to be such which fulfills social standards and is recognized by society, so I would like to challenge the LVMH Prize also. The fashion Re:quaL≡ suggests, of conveying through the past, I feel, has something to offer to the saturating fashion industry. As for business developments, I am thinking of developments in the Asian markets starting with China, because I feel a synergy between the towns and our brand.



©Japan Fashion Week Organization 2017, All Rights Reserved.

  • Instagram
  • YouTube