Under the concept of “Luxury of Silence”, HARUNOBUMURATA is a brand gathering support from high-end women of all ages, with their popularity rising rapidly. With their unique business style and sure creation, they have given birth to a new value of luxury in the Japanese market. We spoke to their designer, Mr. Murata, on this brand whose future actions are being carefully watched.

Could you please tell us the background of the brand, on how it came to be?

While I was a student at Esmode, I won the grand prize of the Kobe Fashion Contest, and at that time, one of the judges advised me to go study abroad at Italy because Italy has the ability to make fine quality materials into clothes in the best form. So, after graduating, I spent 8 years in Milan to accumulate experience. It was Milan that made my base as a designer, and I’ve been influenced largely in my way of thinking. When I was working at Jill Sanders, it was during the timing of when Lucie & Luke Meier were rebranding, so I was able to gain up-close, first-hand experience on their process of creating ways to show from scratch. It was a difficult time, by I feel I was very lucky. I learned it is not enough to simply make quality things, that the value of things changes gravely depending upon how it is conveyed. Utilizing this experience, after returning to Japan, I launched this brand in its present form from the 2019 AW season.

Is your experience at Milan connected to your being greatly particular about your presentation, for example shooting brand visuals yourself?

Yes, definitely. Rather than starting with an idea of what kind of clothes I want to make, I start designing from an idea of what kind of image of a person I wish to present, or a wish to create an instant of a certain pose during a certain flow of motion, or a certain image of the brand I wish to convey.

After returning to Japan, you have presented for eight seasons as a brand. What is your state of mind at this point?

There is so much more I feel we can do, so much more I wish to do. As a brand, we are at the stage of finally being on track business wise, and I feel we are now finally standing at the starting line as a brand. I also have a sure feel that the worldview of the brand has been conveyed to customers, so I feel the need to dig in deeper in search of a luxury all our own.

What kind of customers mainly wear your clothes?

Our customer group is really great. They are the exact image of the kind of women I imagined and wished for to wear our clothes. We are favored by women who have a strong core, mature women who believe in their own values, with the ability to recognize quality, and it is so encouraging to be told our items are good by such people. I have the image that our items are being carried at shops that have mental leeway, with time flowing slowly, leisurely. I couldn’t think of many domestic brands who could survive in this category, and I thought things would be difficult until the brand rooted surely, including a feel of acceptance of our price range, but I feel we are now delivering our items to customers as a product that creates style.

Please tell us also about your business situation.

From the 22AW season, we have retained THE WALL for PR and sales, and our wholesale is also increasing steadily. We presently have approximately 30 accounts in Japan. But at the same time, I have been thinking that relying on wholesale alone is too risky, and because I wish to convey the worldview of the brand directly, we are putting strength into direct sales also. We are carrying out exhibits that could be called fitting gatherings for general customers, followed by online sale by subscription, as a form of ordering. I feel, this allows us to surely communicate with our customers as a brand. Customers with good senses introduce us to others adding their own interpretation of the brand, which, as a result, ties into a rise in acknowledgement of the brand, which also contributes to a rise in sales for our wholesale partners. I feel, having customers who have experienced the worldview of the brand directly, passionately introduce our brand to others, is securing reliability of the brand.

How was the runway show in Tokyo you presented, having won the TOKYO FASHION AWARD?

It was cost and time consuming, but the reaction to the show was truly huge, bringing about a large increase in wholesale, along with direct sales after the show. It is my idea that showing clothes being worn in action makes sense, rather than having them seen being hung on hangers only, so I hope to continue presenting in show form.

How was the showroom in Paris?

Actually, to be honest, I wasn’t expecting much from it, but in reality, we received not only orders but also sure appraisals of the brand, which gave us confidence that we can battle in the global scene. We received a sure response, but there are still many variables, such as being unsure in how long a term we can recover our capital, so I am feeling a strong need to reestablish strategies for future developments. Like we did in domestic developments, we need to first surely examine and review how to show our brand in a method befitting ourselves, our system in doing things, such as raising acknowledgement of the brand, then wholesaling to overseas markets, deepening our ties with overseas luxury markets, etc. Considering local networks, we are planning to work on Milan, rather than Paris.

What kind of experience has winning the TOKYO FASHION AWARD been for the brand?

Becoming an award-winner has surely expanded the level of acknowledgement of the brand, and we feel it is acting as proof of quality befitting our prices and ability.

A word of advice to those people considering applying to the TOKYO FASHION AWARD, please.

It is an award which will be a turning point in your career, which only comes a few times in a lifetime. I am confident that it will be a huge opportunity, both business wise and as a step up, so if you are considering it, you should definitely take a chance and challenge it.

What future prospects do you have as a brand?

We feel that the luxury we suggest requires a personal connection. It is my idea that the form of luxury we aim for is one that not only delivers fine clothing made using fine materials, but also gives spiritual, mental value in addition to material value. In the future, I feel it is important to create a salon-like space at which we can communicate directly with our customers, carry out high engagement plans in cooperation with shops that carry our products, in effort to have the worldview of the brand felt more strongly. At the same time, as a brand we hope to create scenes, places to which customers can wear our dresses to. Business wise, from a brand that has been operated almost exclusively by a single designer, I wish to organize a structure which will enable us to suggest a more essential Japanese luxury. In the end, I hope the brand name will be known and remembered globally.

Is there anything you wish to challenge as a designer?

There are still many, many resources I haven’t been able to utilize fully, of suppliers I worked with during my years at Italy, such as embroidery, materials, etc. It is my wish to challenge myself in reinterpreting such resources into the shape of a new luxury.