IRENISA, continuously participating at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO since the 2022 SS season. In the 23 AW season, presented their very first runway show, which evoked a grave response due to their high degree of perfection and sophisticated expressionism. Their collection created by a designer duo who started out as pattern makers, has established a unique position within the men’s fashion market, with high expectations to do well in the future. We spoke to this brand, preparing once again for another collection presentation at Tokyo in the upcoming 24 SS season, on the brand’s present situation and future prospects.

Please tell us your present business situation

We have approximately 20-25 domestic accounts and 5 overseas accounts. Our very first exhibit was held amid the declaration of a state of emergency, and our business started along with the expansion of the pandemic, but despite the difficulties of the time, buyers came to visit our exhibit, and we were so very thankful to have our garments not only seen but touched and understood.

Please tell us what it is that you hold dear in your creations.

Because we used to be pattern makers, how our garments feel when worn is important to us. Beautiful when seen from the front, side, any angle, and comfortable to wear, are only minimum requirements, simply basic in making garments.

How do you proceed in creating a collection?

At IRENISA, we follow the pattern of starting by selecting materials. We usually do not draw rigid design drawings. The flow is rather that we decide on the design as we draw up the patterns. The whole staff is involved in the fitting, which is performed in earnest, so we always end up fighting! (laugh) Part of our staff are of younger generations, and we feel it is important to incorporate their opinions too as we proceed. This also sometimes makes us realize a new point of view. You can say, we create one style that everybody thinks is good, by listening to all sorts of people’s opinions. We are not a brand that creates under a concept. It is as if we construct a collection by fleshing out our emotions on the garment as we make them.

What prompted you to apply to TFA?

From the start of the brand, it had always been our wish to become a brand able to battle in the global stage, so being given the opportunity to exhibit at the Paris showroom was an attractive point. But on the other hand, we feel there is no meaning in presenting a show unless we continue doing it, so to be honest, we were negative about presenting a show … But when push came to shove, we ended up presenting an extremely typical show-like show on the first day (laugh).

Having been awarded the TFA, how was this year of receiving all sorts of supports?

There was great impact from presenting a show. We ourselves were moved by having customers see our garments being worn, in motion, on the runway directly for the very first time and received high praise from the people around us. Doing a show for our own brand was simply fun, and moreover, a fantastic experience.

How was participating at the Paris showroom?

There needs to be a match in size range, price range, etc. so quite honestly, we did feel some difficulties. Compared to January at which time we felt some issues in size range, the reaction was good in June when we broadened our size range. This made us realize the necessity of continuing to present overseas, thereby continuing to improve our products according to market needs and raising the level of brand recognition. Paris in June this year was extremely hot, which also made us realize the necessity of MD dealing with heat issues in the SS season.Furthermore, taste wise, IRENISA is not an easily comprehensive brand, so while strengthening our brand character into one that conveys a message easier from a hanger, it is our wish to raise our value and show results by continuing to participate. And as long as we are doing it at Paris, we do hope to obtain accounts with European shops.

Please tell us your future prospects as a brand.

We have confidence in that our production is at a world-class level, so we intend to continue challenging all sorts of things. IRENISA has the ability to work with Japanese professionals, such as sewing factories, fabric companies, etc. so it is also our wish to convey the attractions of such as a brand. Furthermore, to raise global recognition, we intend to challenge various prizes or contests, such as the Woolmark Prize.

Finally, a word for those brands, designers considering applying to TFA, please.

It is a terrific opportunity to challenge the world, so we think you should believe in your production abilities and apply. Even if you do not win, there is some reason to why you did not, but this is a fantastic opportunity to better your product and challenge again. Also, even if you win the award and are given opportunities, if you do not have ample capital, you will be limited in the things you can do, so I would suggest muscling up and steadying the foundation of your company.