Creating under the concept of “clothes that weave together the past 100 years and the nest 100 years”, TANAKA is a fashion brand growing rapidly both nationally and internationally. Established in 2017 based in N.Y., the memory of TANAKA’s very first runway show in Tokyo last March, and how it gathered grave attention is still fresh. They presently have close to 100 accounts nationally and internationally, constantly presenting world-class creations. We interviewed their designer, Ms. Tanaka, and creative director, Mr. Kuboshita, on the brand’s road up to now, and its future.

First, please tell us your present business situation.

MR. KUBOSHITA) Number of accounts wise, as of the 24SS season, we will have more domestic accounts than overseas accounts. We have had a contract with an overseas showroom for some time now, so originally, we had more overseas accounts than domestic accounts, counting approximately 40 accounts, but from next season, our domestic accounts count has become approximately 50 accounts. The majority of our overseas accounts are shops around Italy, and because we tied a contract with an American showroom in 22FW, our American accounts are also increasing.
MS. TANAKA) Thanks to being awarded the TOKYO FASHION AWARD, and being able to participate in the Paris showroom, there has been an increase in contact from Asian regions. Japanese brands are gathering attention in Asian regions, and because this timing overlays with the ending of the corona pandemic, we are predicting further increase.

How is TANAKA being perceived from overseas markets?

MS. TANAKA)　Although we are based in N.Y., TANAKA is recognized as a Japanese brand. Stores seem to want to carry us because of our clean beauty unique to Japan. Japanese denim is highly reputed for being reliable and are very popular. Not only is the high quality of Japanese brands being praised, but there is also a feel that Japanese brands are gaining attention overseas because so many unique new brands are arising, and I feel, being a Japanese brand is working as a tail wind for us now.
MR. KUBOSHITA) Whether it is in Japan or overseas, the way we are selling is basically the same. If you look closely, there is a difference in choice of colors, but denim occupies approximately half of our sales. At overseas, we have a wide array of shops carrying our items, from large-scale women’s stores to niche men’s stores. It is our read that this is because TANAKA products are easy to edit into the taste of each store.

What do you think is the reason why you are growing so much in domestic markets?

MR. KUBOSHITA) All products are unisex, with an assortment of different sizes, so when we first started domestic developments, people were perplexed at how to edit it into their selection. But on the other hand, once one grasps how to handle our products, it seems we become an easier choice to select in buying. The number of domestic accounts are increasing, but the buying amount of each account is also increasing, showing an increase of approximately 10 times more in the two and a half years up to 24SS. The major reason for this is because we have organized a working team in Japan for sales, press, etc. Furthermore, being awarded the TFA as led to a rise in our level of acknowledgement, from the opportunity of seeing our show in Tokyo, there are many accounts that we have started business with from 24SS.

How was your runway show at Tokyo?

MR. KUBOSHITA) It turned out to be a good starting point. It made us realize that presenting by exhibitions only tends to narrow the expression of the brand’s creations, so we now feel we wish to broaden our expressiveness as a brand.
MS. TANAKA) It was an opportunity to convey our worldview to those people who were unfamiliar with the TANAKA brand, and it also enabled us to renew our potential. This show was received extremely well, so if we can prepare for the next one even better, and if the time is right, we will most definitely do a show again!

Having been awarded the TFA, how was this past year?

MR. KUBOSHITA) Business wise, we have seen impressive results, and doing the show has been a fantastic opportunity to think about the direction of the brand. The overseas showroom we have a contract with was held during the Ladies term, but this time we were able to exhibit during the timing of the pre/men’s term, which brought about new expansion.

Please tell about your future prospects for the brand.

MS. TANAKA) To become the first Japanese brand to globally transmit its styles or worldviews, with Japanese denim as the main axis. And also, that that connects to being a brand that lives on for 100 years. The whole world knows how wonderful Japanese denim is, but despite that, I feel there are no Japanese brands that represent that. For example, like HELMUT LANG, Calvin Klien, Acne, Diesel, etc. in the US and Europe. They do not just sell jeans as a singular item. Rather, they each have their own style and attitude, along with a visual image that everyone can recall in an instant. I am determined that, with Japanese denim as an anchor, TANAKA will lead the world with such styles or worldview that will remain for years to come. First, we will become a brand representing the 2020’s, and then continue on for 100 years. For that, we must increase the number of our team members. As a maison brands do, I hope to form and steady the base of a long living brand with members who hold the same aspirations, as soon as possible.
MR. KUBOSHITA) I have a view of creating a piece that will be a permanent part of MOMA. I wish to give birth to a piece that is complete also as an item. A piece that anybody and everybody can not only wear, but wear in their own style.

Finally, a word to those brands thinking of applying to TFA, please.

Being awarded the TFA, being supported, brings about a year of gaining a power supplement, in addition to your own capabilities. Steadfast your axis, and let’s each do our very best!