ILaunched in 2015SS, “AKIKOAOKI”, is growing surely as a women’s brand that has a distinctive philosophy and style. Recently, they are probably many people who have a strong impression of their iconically shaped shoes line, which has captivated the hearts of fashionistas. This brand is expected to excel even further both nationally and internationally. We spoke to their designer, Ms. Aoki, regarding the brand’s path up to here and its future prospects.

What characterizes your brand?

My approach in which the silhouette becomes apparent for the first time after reconstructing a women’s body and having women actually wear it, characterizes my brand. I maintain a certain distance when contemplating about women’s bodies, thereby creating new, unique shapes, in pursuit of beauty that can be felt when worn.

What is it that you hold dear in your creations?

Recently, I am conscious of not being overly sensational at first glance. In modern society, compounded with the advancement of SNS, I think there exists a custom of being intoxicated by stimulating things. But I think that in truth, momentary stimulation does not remain in one’s memory for long. Rather than being a passing memory, I aim to create fashion which sinks in and becomes attached to one’s lifestyle, philosophy over a long period of time. Furthermore, although the word “trend” is sometimes regarded as having a negative nuance, I think of this concept as being a positive thing. I feel it is important for both the brand and myself, that while maintaining an unwavering philosophy in these fluctuating times, at the same time, we need to be flexible, and change along with the times. It is important for me to have these seemingly completely opposite concepts co-exist.

How is your present business situation?

Presently, we have approximately 20 domestic accounts and 6 overseas accounts, with business increasing every season. The shoes line we started in cooperation with Three Treasures as a DtoC is developing favorably. We started EC amid the corona pandemic and started shoes as a product fit for EC sales. Recently, with Southern Korean artists wearing our shoes, along with men, who we had no contact within our existing brand choosing to wear our shoes, a pattern of shoes being an entrance to the brand, then extending to buying clothes is beginning to form.

What prompted you to apply to TFA this time around?

Having experienced the corona pandemic, I started to think, I want to present a show, I want to challenge overseas, so I applied.

Provided by AKIKOAOKI

The 23AW was your first show in a while. How was it in truth?

Shows are extremely powerful forms of presentation, which allows for not only expressing a worldview that cannot be expressed in lookbooks or exhibits, with a sense of live, so I challenged it with the hope to express the brand’s attitude. Thanks to an increase in exposure, we received grave response, along with business results as a brand who has presented a show at Tokyo, we did well. Also, doing a show presentation this time around enabled me to realize some issues I have in design aspects.

How was the Paris showroom?

Buyers from all different countries came to visit, through which we received both reactions and selection differing largely from Japan, and I learned a lot. It was clear that they are looking for brands with originality, and being able to gather data on different countries, such as difference in climates, demand in size range, has been an enormous gain. When we first participated in 23AW, we acquired accounts in Dubai and South Korea, with a further increase of South Korean accounts in 24SS, and even one account in France. The 23AW was a collection created under the premise that we will be presenting a show, so it contained powerful pieces, but in 24SS, I created with the wish to apply the reality of things I felt in the city of Paris, conscious of creating clothes with margin to blend into the styles, lifestyles of people who wear them.

What kind of response did you feel?

In overseas markets, there exists an understanding towards tailoring and dresses, and because they have scenes in everyday life in which such clothes can be worn, I feel they sympathize more with the brand’s aim without explaining. How Japanese brands will be received in markets other than Asian regions is still unknown, so I intend to keep challenging by continuing to participate in showrooms. As a forte characteristic to Japan, there is the feel of materials, especially, the post processing of synthetics is thought to be unique, so I think there are possibilities in techniques, skills, crafts that exist only in Japan.

Finally, a word of advice to designers, brands considering applying to TFA, please.

It is a truly enlightening experience, so I urge you to apply. It is an award in which several brands are chosen, which gives you insight into how your brand is being seen objectively, and becoming aware of differences in brands holds great importance. The presenting of a show also is a place where one can create an impression of the brand, utilize it as PR, so there are no negative aspects in doing it. The schedule after receiving the award is harsh … but I recommend sweating it out, even if it means pushing yourself a bit. In the end, you will realize that your capacity has increased, too!