What are your sources of inspiration for your creations?

Kozuka : Ideas and words come to my mind when I am relaxed, for example when I am drinking alcohol or taking a walk. I think it is important to think in terms of what is good or bad for the brand, rather than my personal likes and dislikes, so I am also conscious of the perspective of not disappointing customers' expectations. It would be great if the concept and mood of the issue is conveyed to the customer and then it becomes a product that sells well.

Could you give us an overview of your current business?

Kajiura : We have many business partners, with about 50 to 60 stores in Japan and 20 to 30 stores overseas, mainly in Asia. Sales have been increasing by 30% year-on-year for the past few years.

That's fantastic! How do you see the growth of the brand?

Kajiura : In the past, most of our customers were in their 20s, but now customers from all age groups love to buy products from the brand. I think the reason for this is that we have broadened the range of our business partners more than before, such as by expanding our business to stores that receive a lot of traffic. As for Japan, we are currently at a stage where we are placing more emphasis on business with existing stores rather than increasing the number of stores, since there are area conflicts in Japan. At the same time, we are looking to expand into new markets, such as fashion for 40s and 50s, women’s clothing, etc.

You also operate a physical store in Tokyo. Please tell us about it.

Kajiura : Since we are a brand with many product numbers, it is like a treasure hunt for our customers to look at our products in the stores of our business partners. To resolve this situation, we opened a store in Tokyo as a place where customers can see our full lineup of products. In FY2023, sales at the Tokyo store tripled compared to the previous year, and have now grown to about half of the EC sales.

How is the response to your overseas expansion?

Kajiura : We have been operating a showroom in Paris since the launch of the brand, and the results have actually been very positive, so we feel that we are getting a good response to our overseas expansion. In the beginning, we had a 50:50 balance between business in Japan and overseas, but now our business in Japan has grown, so the ratio is about 70:30. In terms of overseas business, we are getting into a merchandising style of making proposals by looking at the market and trends, and the silhouettes and products have a high reputation. In the future, we would like to hold shows and other events so that the worldview and concept proposed by Kozuka can be well understood by people overseas.

Are you conscious of being a “Tokyo Brand”?

Kajiura: We are not conscious of being a Tokyo brand, but I think Tokyo is the only city where you can make clothes and fabrics, and where there is a big market and a fashion week. Paris has a fashion week, but there is no production base. We are very lucky to be able to work in Tokyo Japan, so I feel that we have to work even harder so that the city of craftsmanship does not die out.

What made you apply for the TOKYO FASHION AWARD?

Kajiura: When we consulted with WWD about the fact that our brand was not often featured in the media while our sales were growing, a person at WWD recommended us to apply for the award, and that is how we decided to apply. Since we had already been expanding our business overseas on our own, we honestly did not see any merit in the TFA’s support for the overseas expansion. However, we applied for it because we thought that being evaluated by others would change the way our brand was seen and perceived in the world.

When you actually won the TFA, was the reaction of the people around you as you expected?

Kajiura: I feel that the way people around us look at our brand has changed. I am also grateful that the award has led to an increase in business with factories and fabric stores.

In March 2024, you held a triumphant return presentation at the Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 24A/W. What were your aims for that installation?

Kozuka: The premise was that, having done one show before Fashion Week, it would not be possible to do a second show, and the idea behind it was to create an open, museum-like venue that would provide an opportunity for the young people who will lead the fashion industry in the 2030s. I myself often emphasize process in my creations, so by presenting an installation in which the brand’s process and output could be seen, I knew that people would think it was an esoteric presentation with little information (laughs), but my aim was that the young people with good noses would be able to perceive something in it.

Finally, what advice would you give to designers who are considering applying to TFA?

Kajiura: Please be aware that putting on a show is a real challenge. I think it is a very valuable award when you have a system in place to utilize the award in the trajectory of growing your own brand!