Kota Gushiken's knitted creations are imbued with humor and warmth, giving them a uniquely personal touch. Despite the designer’s preference to remain faceless, the heartfelt emotions and meticulous craftsmanship evident in the knits continue to captivate people, fueling ongoing growth. The memorable show at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO, which skillfully blended comedy, live performance, and fashion, remains vivid in our minds. We had the opportunity to speak with Kota Gushiken, the visionary designer behind this remarkable brand.

I understand you studied at Central Saint Martins and launched your own brand immediately after returning to Japan.

After graduating, I initially intended to work overseas but faced significant challenges in obtaining a work visa as an Asian. I temporarily returned to Japan to prepare for the application process. Shortly after my return, I received an unexpected call from Isetan: "We saw your graduation collection! If you have a new collection, we’d love to work with you!" It was an incredible opportunity that made my time in Japan highly productive. I began creating a collection, hand-knitting each piece to order and personally delivering them. The experience of knowing someone would wear something I crafted was profoundly moving. This naturally led to the decision to start my own brand, shaping the path to where I am today.

Tell us about the brand concept.

The concept is 'knitwear for human beings.' Our aim is to create knitwear that transcends gender and age, providing fashion that anyone can enjoy freely and inclusively.

What does knitwear mean for you?

Knitwear begins with developing the yarn itself, followed by combining threads, experimenting with knitting techniques, exploring textures, adjusting thickness, and shaping the design. Every element can be freely crafted from start to finish, and this creative freedom has always fascinated me, driving my passion for making knits. When craftsmen and factories introduce me to new yarns or techniques, and my ideas come to life as finished pieces, it’s incredibly exciting. Sometimes, the final product surpasses my expectations or surprises me in delightful ways. These moments of joy and discovery are what make creating knitwear truly special.

What is the source of your creative inspiration?

Whether I’m having a conversation, listening to music, admiring art, or even a bit drunk from drinking alcohol, I often find inspiration in the subtle nuances of daily life and let my ideas evolve from there. On New Year’s Day in 2022, the stunning view of Mount Fuji from near my home inspired me to create knitwear featuring a Mount Fuji pattern. There was also a time when my work was influenced by the music of Louis Cole, shaping an entire season of creations.

Please tell us the current situation of your business situation.

Domestically, we collaborate with 30 stores. Instead of pursuing rapid expansion, we chose to grow the brand at a manageable pace, prioritizing the long-term health of both the business and the brand. Internationally, we started with the TFA showroom and now work with four stores.

What profile of customers does your brand attract?

Our customer base is remarkably diverse, spanning from teenage boys to a tea ceremony teacher in her 70s. What unites them is their shared passion for fashion and their genuine appreciation for our clothing. Their backgrounds and professions are varied, but we are deeply grateful that individuals who resonate with our brand concept choose to wear our products.

What led you to apply to TFA?

I applied with the intention of showcasing the 24AW collection in Paris.

After winning the award, did you notice any changes in how others perceive or evaluate you?

I noticed a significant shift after hosting the show. I received a lot of positive feedback, both from within and outside the industry, not only about the show itself but also about the fact that it was presented in Paris.

What was your experience hosting your first show in Tokyo like?

I’m passionate about music and often attend live performances, both large and small, that evoke a wide range of emotions. Viewing it as a "show," I wanted to create something in fashion that could move people’s hearts in the same way live performances, movies, or plays do. This inspired me to design a performance that blended comedy and music.　Before this, I wasn’t particularly interested in fashion shows. However, after hosting one, I realized that there are aspects of a brand that cannot be conveyed through clothing alone. I came to understand why other brands hold shows and saw their value as a platform for expressing a brand’s identity. The response was incredible, and most importantly, I had an amazing time!

Could you share the feedback you received and the challenges you faced at the Paris showroom?

Our uniqueness is a strong asset both domestically and internationally. While there are many challenges, our top priority is increasing brand recognition and encouraging overseas buyers to visit the showroom. Although the barriers may be high, I aim to actively engage with stores, build strong relationships, and expand sales internationally, following the same independent approach that has worked well domestically.

How has the year been since you won the TFA award?

The year following the TFA award announcement was incredibly busy—I barely had any time to rest! (lol). Thanks to the support and collaboration of everyone involved, I managed to navigate the whirlwind schedule and achieve positive results, with increased recognition and sales domestically. It was a transformative year that brought significant changes both for the brand and for me personally, and I hope to continue evolving these changes in a positive direction.

Could you share your future outlook for your brand?

Up to now, I’ve managed everything on my own, but moving forward, I plan to take on employees, streamline the company’s structure, and run the business more efficiently. Domestically, I’ve established strong communication and mutual understanding with business partners and customers, and I aspire to build the same relationships internationally. I truly enjoy engaging with people, and conversations inspire me and help clarify my ideas. I want to channel these personal emotions into my brand and designs.

As a designer, is there anything new you’d like to pursue or take on as a challenge?

I want to elevate the depth of my work so far by venturing into new, uncharted areas and pursuing exciting challenges beyond the realm of knitwear.

Lastly, do you have any advice for designers thinking about applying for TFA?

The opportunity to showcase in Paris for two seasons free of charge is an invaluable starting point for brands looking to expand internationally. However, it’s also important to be well-prepared from the moment you apply, as this can help you make the most of your resources and experience.