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Koji Udo


有働 幸司 / ファクトタム

Winner's Interview

Interview / Aug. 18, 2015

Interview by Yuki Harada
Photography by Yohey Goto

Masayuki Ino


5年ほど前に、単独でニューヨークのショールームと合同展に参加した経験がありますが、今回はTOKYO FASHION AWARDからの支援を受け、同じ日本人の仲間たちとひとつのショールームで発表できたので、以前に比べ、良い意味でリラックスした状態で臨むことができたと思います。


ニューヨークでの経験を踏まえ、価格設定やサイズ展開など、海外マーケットを意識しました。2015年1月に行われた最初のショールームに関しては、2014年10月のTFA2015 受賞発表から期間が短かったこともあり、デニムをはじめ定番的なアイテムを中心にしたコンパクトなコレクションを持って行きました。ファクトタムのベースであるシンプルでベーシックなリアルクローズという部分は崩したくないという思いがありましたが、1回目のショールームではシンプルにまとめすぎてしまったことから、海外ではもっとインパクトが強いアイテムも必要だというアドバイスをいただきました。それを受け、2回目の展示では、染めや刺繍など日本らしい技術を活かした生地などをつくっていきました。

What was it like to present your collection for two seasons at Paris’s showroom “”?

Although we have the experience of participating in a joint exhibition with a showroom in New York independently, with the support of the TOKYO FASHION AWARD this time we were able to announce our collection in a single showroom with our Japanese friends. Compared with previous announcements, I think that we were able to face this in a relaxed state, in the good sense of the term.

What aspects did you focus on when crafting your clothes?

Based on our experience in New York, we were conscious of the overseas market, such as pricing and size expansion. For our first showroom held in January, 2015, the period from the award announcement of TFA 2015 in October 2014 was short, so we decided to go with a compact collection which focused on classic items, including denim. We didn't want to break the simple and basic "real clothing" base of FACTOTUM. However, because our first showroom had been summarized too simply, we received advice that we needed to have items with a stronger impact overseas. In response to this advice, we made cloths that took advantage of techniques with a Japanese sense, such as dying and embroidery, for our second exhibition.

Masayuki Ino



今年3月のMercedes-Benz Fashion Week TOKYO 2015-16 A/Wで行った凱旋ショーには、どのような意識で臨みましたか。


How did visitors react?

Conscious that we were making an announcement overseas, we deployed items using fabrics and colors with a Japanese feel to them, and I feel that our buyers overseas very positively received the "Made in Japan" sense given off in our fabrics and sewing. In addition, as we had expected, the embroidery and dyed items from the second announcement were picked up, allowing for us to be able to feel a greater response than the first time. During our expansion in New York, the height of the price was often pointed out. However, this time we decided not to worry too much about that part, and in turn we had the feeling that creating something memorable to the beholder would lead to a good reaction. In Paris, buyers gathered from all across the globe have to look at an astounding number of brands in a short period of time, showing that once again first impressions are extremely important. Even if the language can't be understood, I thought that we have to do our best to make clothing that is capable of conveying our intentions.

This March, you presented a come-back show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week TOKYO 2015-16 A/W. What kind of mindset did you have for this event?

Since we had already finished the exhibition in Paris when January came around, we had slightly different feelings regarding the show in Tokyo. Members participating in the showroom all announce their shows and installations on the same day, giving a somewhat festival-like sense. We also left with a sense of accomplishment after it ended. We had a party with everyone from the participating brands on the day of the show, and were able to hear a variety of different stories there. The characters of the designers from the six brands awarded this time are all completely different. However, there was a good sense of balance, and the members who don't have many opportunities to get together in Tokyo gathered together to spend a bit of time together, which turned into a good experience. On top of this, I was able to remember what it was like as a student to gather everyone together to do something, which was extremely fun.

Masayuki Ino



Please tell us of your future plans.

With the good opportunity this time around, we hope to further focus on our overseas expansion. In Paris, we were able to have the opportunity to see various showrooms and joint exhibitions. Among these various exhibitions, we felt the importance of showing off the individuality of a brand in a way that makes sense for ourselves, and I believe that business opportunities will spread from there. In the future we would like to continue to make clothing to impact people overseas through the delicate manufacturing unique to Japan, without blurring from the axis of FACTOTUM.



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