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Yoshikazu Yamagata

writtenafterwards / written by

山縣 良和 / リトゥンアフターワーズ/リトゥン バイ

Winner's Interview

Interview / Aug. 18, 2015

Interview by Yuki Harada
Photography by Yohey Goto

Masayuki Ino


今回は、新たにスタートしたリトゥン バイの販路を拡大したいと考えていた時期だったので、非常に良い機会になりました。リトゥンアフターワーズでは、これまでも海外でショーをする機会はあったのですが、パリでコレクションを発表するのは今回が初めてでした。パリには以前に住んでいた時期があり、それ以来約10年ぶりに戻ることができたのですが、やはり世界中から多くの人たちが集まる都市で、ここで勝負したいと思わせてくれる場所だと強く感じました。また、他の受賞デザイナーの方々とさまざまな話をする中で、自分に今足りない部分が明確になりましたし、色々と勉強になりました。


今回は、新たにスタートしたリトゥン 特に1回目のショールームについては準備時間が短く、スケジュール面で厳しいところがあり、新作はあまり持って行けなかったのですが、過去に発表した「七福神」のシリーズなど象徴的なアイテムをお見せできたので、ブランドの世界観を知っていただく機会にはなったと思います。2回目のショールームでは、やはり新作の点数を増やすことが最大の課題でしたが、立ち上げてまもないリトゥン

What was it like to present your collection for two seasons at Paris’s showroom “”?

As this was a time in which we were thinking of expanding the sales channels for the newly started "written by" brand, I felt that it was a very good opportunity. With "writtenafterwards," although we had opportunities to do shows overseas up until now, this was the first time for us to announce a collection in Paris. There was a period when I used to live in Paris. Returning for the first time since that time about ten years ago, I strongly felt that Paris is a city where different people gather from all over the world, making me want to compete there. Things that I am currently lacking became apparent through various talks with the other award-winning designers, and it was a great lesson for me.

What aspects did you focus on when crafting your clothes?

The preparation period for the showrooms, in particular the first one, was quite short with a tight schedule, so we were unable to bring many new works. However, we were able to show "THE SEVEN GODS" series that we had announced in the past, which became an opportunity for people to get to know the world of the brand. For the second showroom, our biggest challenge was to increase the number of new items. Among the unfamiliar schedule of "written by," which had just launched, we did everything we could to make products, anxious about just how much we could get completed.

Masayuki Ino


1回目は、異色のブランドとして認知していただけたとは思いますが(笑)、なにしろアイテムの点数が少なかったので、面白いけどよく分からないという印象を持たれた方がほとんどだったと思います。ただ、コレットのサラ(アンデルマン)さんが展示を見てくれて、ショップのショーウインドウのデザインをやらないかと声をかけてくれて、非常に多くの方に見てもらうことができました。2回目には、リトゥン バイの新作を充分に持って行けましたが、日常で着られる洋服を目指す上でも、ちょっとしたニュアンスの部分にオリジナリティがあるということが非常に大切だと感じましたし、同時に、リトゥンアフターワーズとリトゥン バイの間に位置するような特別な日にドレスアップできる洋服を提案する必要性も実感しました。

今年3月のMercedes-Benz Fashion Week TOKYO 2015-16 A/Wで行った凱旋ショーには、どのような意識で臨みましたか。


How did visitors react?

For the first time, I think that we were able to be recognized as a unique brand (laughing). After all, since there were only a few items, I think most people walked away with the impression that it was interesting, but they didn't know what was going on. However, Sarah Andelman from Colette saw our exhibition and invited us to do the window design for the shop, which was seen by a large amount of people. Although we presented a sufficient amount of new items for "written by," we felt that it was very important to have a sense of originality in the slightly nuanced area when aiming for clothing that can be worn on a daily basis. At the same time, we realized the need for proposing clothing that can be dressed up in on special days, positioned somewhere in between "writtenafterwards" and "written by."

This March, you presented a come-back show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week TOKYO 2015-16 A/W. What kind of mindset did you have for this event?

When I went to Paris in January, it was immediately following the Charlie Hebdo incident. Staying at a hotel right next to the scene of the crime, I thought to myself while feeling the tense air at the time, "what can I do as a Japanese, somebody who came from the outside?" while feeling the tense air at the time. Following this, I incorporated these thoughts at the triumphal in Tokyo in March, holding a show with the theme of "Earth." This time around, I had the desire to be seen by men and women of all ages. We received a variety of reactions to having the announcement in the form of a show, and I think it became a very good opportunity as a result.

Masayuki Ino


リトゥン バイについては、現在はメンズ寄りのユニセックスという形で展開していますが、今後はリトゥンアフターワーズとも連動しながら、よりターゲットを広げていきたいと考えています。今回の展示を通じて、自分たちが進むべき方向性はだいぶ見えてきたのですが、そこに向かうためにクリアすべき課題をひとつずつ乗り越えていくことの難しさを痛感しているところです。今後もパリで発表を続けたいという思いは強いのですが、世界で勝負していく上では、普通の洋服をつくっているだけではダメだということを実感したので、他のブランドにはない個性というものを、リトゥンアフターワーズの活動などを通して、より強く発信していきたいと考えています。

Please tell us of your future plans.

Although we are currently developing "written by" in a slightly-male unisex style, we would like to further expand the target while collaborating with "writtenafterwards" in the future as well. While we were able to largely get a feeling for the direction in which we should move forward through the exhibition this time, we are keenly aware of the difficulties to be faced in order to overcome each and every challenge in order to move forward in that direction. While our desire to continue our announcements as a brand in Paris in the future is strong, we realize that it's useless to just make ordinary clothing in order to challenge on a global scale. We would like to continue to strongly spread our unique individuality that can't be found in other brands through the activities of "writtenafterwards."



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