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Winner Interview

Interview / July.30, 2019

Interview by Tomoko Kawasaki
Translation by Aiko Osaki
Photography by Yohey Goto

藤田 宏行

2シーズンにわたって、フィレンツェの「PITTI UOMO」とパリのショールーム「」でコレクションを発表するにあたり、どのような意識で臨みましたか。

海外展開という点では、実はすでに2018 A/Wシーズンからパリのエージェンシーとショールーム契約をしており、今シーズンで4シーズンとなります。今回TOKYO FASHION AWARDのサポートでもショールームに参加したことによって、欧州で複数拠点でプレゼンテーションすることになり、ブランドとして海外での売上を着実に伸ばす時期に来たと感じました。現在は、香港、台湾、上海などアジア圏での展開がほとんどのため、欧州でのアカウント獲得に繋げたいと思っています。そのためには、セルフリッジやブラウンズ、H.ロレンツォなど、世界的に注目されるキーショップでまず取り扱いをスタートしてもらうことが大切だと考えています。


2020 S/Sシーズンでは「STONE」をテーマに、市場での売れ行きやマーケティング観点を敢えて無視して、自分が着たいと思うもの、テーマに沿った直感的なものづくりを行いました。私の地元である島根のメノウを使用したアイテムもあります。ブランドとしては原点回帰したデザインとなりましたが、会場ではとても反応が良かったように思います。海外バイヤーは、ブランドの核となるアイテムやアイコン的な強いピースを求めているので、発色や色使いにこだわったコレクションが評価されました。


今回のファッション・ウィークでの凱旋イベントがJieDaにとって初めてのショーとなりました。展示会後の実施だったため、受注を取っていくビジネス的な観点ではなく、「見せる」ことに注力したショーで、お客さまからも、バイヤー、プレスの方々からも反応が非常に良くて本当にやって良かったと思っています。TOKYO FASHION AWARD受賞前から、2019 A/Wシーズンのコレクションについては、ショーを行うつもりで事前に準備を進めてきましたが、うちはスタッフ2名でやっているので、人手とスケジュール面、あと資金面が正直大変でした。しかし、ショーを終えた後は非常に達成感がありましたし、世界、特にアジア圏で知名度が上がり、問い合わせも増えました。今後は海外でのショー開催を視野に入れて、準備を進めていきたいと思っています。

TOKYO FASHION AWARDのプログラムに参加したことは、ブランドにとってどのような経験になりましたか。


ジエダ / JieDa



In announcing your collection for 2 consecutive seasons at “PITTI UOMO” at Firenze and the Paris showroom “”, with what mind set did you face these?

To tell you the truth, from the standpoint of overseas developments, we had tied a showroom contract with an agency in Paris since the 2018 A/W season, so this was our 4th season in Paris. But this time, by gaining the support of the TOKYO FASHION AWARD and participating in its showroom, we had gained an opportunity to present in a number of locations in Europe, and I felt, the time had come to surely increase overseas sales as a brand. At this point, our overseas business is mainly in Asia regions, including Hong Kong, Taiwan, Shanghai, so I am hoping to connect this opportunity to surely capturing European accounts. For this, I think it is important to have key shops such as Selfridges, Browns and H. Lorenzo, which gather attention from around the world, start carrying our items.

Hiroyuki Fujita

How was the reaction of the buyers and press whom came to the venue?

For the 2020 S/S season, under the theme “stone”, I purposely ignored marketing viewpoints such as market sales trends, and carried out intuitive clothes making of things I wanted to wear. There were items in which I also used agate, a specialty of my hometown Shimane. It was a return to my roots sort of design for the brand, but I think the reaction at the venue was positive. Overseas buyers tend to look for items which are core to the brand and/or icon-like powerful pieces, so my collection which was particular to color and use of color, received high praise.

Please tell us of the triumphant return event held during fashion week Tokyo this March.

The triumphant return event at this year’s fashion week turned out to be the first show for JieDa. Because it was carried out after the exhibit, it wasn’t done with a business point of view of trying to acquire orders, but rather, it was a show concentrating on “showing”. Thanks to that, the reaction from guests, buyers, press alike were all extremely good, and I was really glad to have done it. Even before being awarded the TOKYO FASHION AWARD, I had intended to present my 2019 A/W collection in show style and had already been making preparations, but our brand is operated with only 2 staff, so to be quite honest, it was very difficult because we were lacking in everything, from hands to scheduling, and of course funds. But after the show, we felt not only an extreme sense of fulfilment, but our level of acknowledgement rose around the world, especially is Asian regions, and we received many contacts. In the future, we intend to go on, keeping in mind and preparing for overseas shows.

What kind of experience has participating in the TOKYO FASHION AWARD Program been for the brand?

First, I’m truly happy to be among those award winners this time around. It gave me an opportunity to learn the creative stance of other brands which I wouldn’t have had a chance to know of otherwise, and this gave me an opportunity to rethink my own ways, with many aspects to learn, both creation wise and business wise.

Please tell us of your future aspirations.

I’ve revised my thoughts on clothes making since I decided to aim overseas as a brand, and I think the flow of the company has changed largely towards a good direction. To make collection presentations in Paris I need to advance creative processes, but because of this, I end up creating at a time with absolutely no information, which I feel allows me to create a collection with more originality as a brand. From here-on, I intend to continue making clothes fully utilizing JieDa’s forte of unique balance and silhouettes born from the essence of the time and its mood and raise what is a mere 10% or so overseas sales, aiming for a half-half domestic-overseas sales ratio.



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